New Girl from Indiana

[danielle]

Hello Everyone
My name is Danielle, I go by Dani also.
I am from the Northeast part of Indiana, around Fort Wayne.

I joined this site to learn some tricks of the trade and how to correct the paint on a few cars in the family.
I own a 99 Grand Prix GT and there is also a 05 G6 GT (it needs help the most).
The G6 was involved in a dirty clay bar detail job and pretty much lost all of its shine and is swirled awful.

I recently purchased a PC7424XP kit, so I'm slowly gathering the correct materials to help me get the job done.

Here are a few pictures of the rides:

Here is a few of the G6 after I waxed it this summer, altho due to the crappy paint condition....it only stayed pretty for a couple days

Anyways, thanks for looking and I look forward to learning a lot here
-Danielle

 

[Pockets]

Welcome to the site!!!

We will get that car corrected with a little elbow grease and some TLC!!!! :smt023

-Chris

 

[BigLeegr]

Well, assuming the clay job did get rid of the contaminants (can you still feel bumps across the paint?) you will need to concentrate on the polishing. Pick a section like the trunk and work on a small section of it to see what works. No point doing the whole car and finding out you were too mild/harsh/quick/whatever to fix it. Start with a mild polish and if that's not enough, try a more aggressive one.
Pad combos are also important. Using an orange pad with a finishing polish will not give you a crystal clear finish nor will it likely correct the paint to your liking.
What stuff do you have to work with so far?
With the John Deere plate up front I'm guessing you have some experience with power tools. Yes? No?

 

[danielle]

Well, assuming the clay job did get rid of the contaminants (can you still feel bumps across the paint?) you will need to concentrate on the polishing. Pick a section like the trunk and work on a small section of it to see what works. No point doing the whole car and finding out you were too mild/harsh/quick/whatever to fix it. Start with a mild polish and if that's not enough, try a more aggressive one.
Pad combos are also important. Using an orange pad with a finishing polish will not give you a crystal clear finish nor will it likely correct the paint to your liking.
What stuff do you have to work with so far?
With the John Deere plate up front I'm guessing you have some experience with power tools. Yes? No?

I have a PC7424XP with 3 white pads, 4 orange, 1 black, 2 red, and 1 blue (I'd have to check the box to make sure).
And yes, I know my way around power tools

All of the orange is gone, the surface is just damaged.
The paint isn't butter like smooth, but at the same time it isn't rough. I would imagine if I clayed it really good before I polished it that it would help a lot.
I tried taking a picture last night but the car was wet and it didn't work. Hopefully I can try again in a couple days.

 

[Poorboy]

Welcome to our forum :smt006 Nice cars :smt023

 

[dtrick.22]

Yeaaaaaaaaah Grand Prix world

 

[Beercan31]

I have a PC7424XP with 3 white pads, 4 orange, 1 black, 2 red, and 1 blue (I'd have to check the box to make sure).
And yes, I know my way around power tools
All of the orange is gone, the surface is just damaged.
The paint isn't butter like smooth, but at the same time it isn't rough. I would imagine if I clayed it really good before I polished it that it would help a lot.
I tried taking a picture last night but the car was wet and it didn't work. Hopefully I can try again in a couple days.

Dani Welcome to the forum

I can not stress enough to work "clean" we have to know beyond all doubts the surface is clean and debris free from industrial fallout to silt or mica from micro dust.
secondly pad selection is important and the reason being is its a rule of thumb is to try the least aggressive method first, without knowing the complete history of the paint its a hit or miss choice on pad selection.

your product selection would help greatly.. even though it's a poorboy's forum and have unlimited advice on the complete line we also have pride in the art of detailing and could give limited advice on other products.

white is worst color to for photographing especially when your trying to capture surface defects and depth of shine. if possible shade the veh. and take your shots towards the light with out getting flairs from direct sun light hitting the lens. for example when taking photos of scenery or people we want the sun at our backs, here try standing in the shade with the car and face the light.

 

[Merlin]

Welcome to PB forum!
​

The PC is a very good tool. I have used it to obtain some awesome results even on WHITE!

To obtain the "show car" finish it takes a bit of time. Have you used a PC before?
There is technique to using the PC with the KBM and four P's (Paint, Polish, Pads & Process)
The folks that frequent here are very knowledgeable and can make white to sparkle!

Tell us a little about the white paint to are trying to correct.
What was done to the paint to get it in the condition it is in?
After a wash, when you put your hand in a baggie, can you feel grit?
What have you done so far as far as polishing the paint with the PC?
What pads, products, PC speeds, arm speed (moving the PC) and downward pressure?
A little background on what was done is helpful so we know how to proceed.

 

[danielle]

The black car is the one that has the issues.
White car is darn near flawless for being 12 years old.

The black car got misted with orange oil based paint from a airless paint sprayer.
My boss at the time "detailed" it and pretty much ruined it in my eyes.
Then when I confronted him about it he said, "we waxed it after"...yeah right.
Took it to the body shop in town and got quoted $450 to have it polished and restored, I couldnt afford it so I passed.
I don't know what all was done, but I'm pretty sure there was a dirty clay bar involved.
My boyfriend owns the car now, so I don't have super easy access to it except on the weekends.
Whenever the car is washed or I wax it, it only stays nice and shiney for a day or 2, then its back to looking gross.
It has swirls and little to no shine.
Even in very poor light, you can see the swirls are awful.
Paint doesn't feel super smooth, but its not pitted.
It's dirty now, but when its washed next I will try the baggie test.

And I haven't used the PC yet. It just came in the mail last Friday.
I was thinking I would probably start on my white car so I can practice first.

I received a DVD in the mail showing how to restore a car using a PC, so I have a visual guide.
From what I've gathered so far, I am going to start out with the SSR2 on a white pad with speeds 5 to 6 on a small test spot (after washing and claying of course) and see where that leads.
It's just irritating cuz I took pride in keeping that car looking gorgeous and then it all got destroyed.

 

[Merlin]

Is all the "orange oil based paint" gone from the paint now?

Good News. Flat looking paint and swirls can be corrected.
Wash a small section 24"x24" and try the baggie test.
If you feel grit it will need to be clayed before polishing.

I might suggest SSR 2.5 if it's actually that bad.
Also an aggressive pad may be needed.
I'd probably start with a 5.5" Lake Country flat orange.

Least aggressive method FIRST!
If that doesn't work then Surbuf pads should do it.

I'm a BIG fan of using a 5" backing plate with a PC.
Then I use 5.5" pads. I like 5.5" LC flat pads.

The trick with a PC is...
Turn on and off the machine with the pad on the paint.
(You will not do this one time and then know why I said this)
I like to remove the handle and cover the head with my hand.
Be sure and get a screw from Ace Hardware to hold the head on.

Work in a small area 24"x24" and do overlaying passes
Always hold the pad FLAT to the surface of the paint

Hold the down pressure on the head at about 15lbs
Make a line mark on the backing plate with a sharpie.
This helps visualize to make sure the head is rotating.
"If it ain't spinnin'. It ain't workin'"

Work arm speed slowly about 1-2 inches per second
Now that we have covered down pressure and arm speed.
Know how your polish reacts and breaks down during use.

In the 24"x24" section do about 5-6 overlapping passes
Then change from vertical to horizontal and do 5-6 passes.

When this 24"x24" section is done use IPA to clean off polish
Inspect the area to see if it has been completely corrected.

Follow the SSR 2.5 with SSR 1 and LC white pads to refine.

This is your "test section" so you can discover what works
Once you get it "tuned in" repeat on the entire vehicle.

This is the process I have found that works for me.

 

[danielle]

As far as the orange, it's been a little over a year since it happened.
I remember all of it being gone as much as I could tell except a few little spots on the trunk lid, but I don't remember for sure.
I'm sure it's going to need a good clay job first.

All of your tips make sense with what my dvd taught me.
I think I'm gonna for sure practice on my Grand Prix first before I tackle the black car just so I can get comfortable with the PC first.

I ordered my first order from Poorboys today! YAY!

 

[danielle]

Ok, I had a chance to take a picture of the paint on the black car.
Its just with my phone using flash as the light, so its not the best but it'll get the point across.

Keep in mind, it was pretty dark/over cast outside, car is filthy and it was raining.

 

[Merlin]

If it's all like that it looks like you and the PC may have 1-2 days polishing the paint.

Clay First

Before..................................................After

........

Then polish the paint with your PC

MACHINE POLISHING HOW-TO TIPS

• Do a test spot! Make sure your technique and process is offering desired results before proceeding to polish the entire car
• Use the proper pad, polish and speed combination for your paint’s condition
• Keep the pad level on your paint surface at all times
• Always start with your least aggressive polish, then step up only if needed
• Use overlapping motions
• SLOW Down! (1" per sec.) Don’t run the machine over the paint too fast or it won’t get the job done
• Work a small (24" by 24") area at a time so you can concentrate on your work
• More polish is not better! Use only about 3 to 4 pea size dabs and add more as necessary
• Never dry buff! Add polish when you see your polish is thin and starts to go clear
• Never buff in direct sun or on a warm or hot surface
• Never use more than one type of polish on your polishing or buffing pad
• Keep your pads away from trim and sharp edges
• Tape off trim with painter's tape to avoid staining trim and polish build up in cracks and crevices
• Never lift your pad off the paint when the machine is turned on (Don't ask me how I know)
• Keep the cord over your shoulder and away from your paint
• Tie a loose knot around where the extension cord meets the polisher cord so it stays plugged in
• Make sure your lighting is good so you can see your progress
• Apply heavy pressure only when removing defects
• Check your work often to make sure your process is working (clean each section with IPA)

.
.
24" x 24" Section Pass Pattern

Suggested Speed Settings:

STEP 1- Remove Serious Defects – 5 to 5.5 (heavy pressure)
STEP 2- Remove Swirl and Minor Defects – 4.5 to 5 (Medium Pressure)
STEP 3- Pre Wax Cleaning and Gloss Enhancement – 4 to 4.5 (Light Pressure)
STEP 4- Apply LSP (Last Step Product) Sealant or wax – 2.5 to 3 (No Pressure)

Mark a line on the backing plate with a Sharpie.
Remember: If it ain't spinnin'...It ain't workin'


And soon the paint will look like this

 

[danielle]

Yeah, the whole car looks like that
I wish it could look half as good as it did.

I'll be honest, some of it is my fault from not knowing how to properly wax and polish the paint. Everything I ever did to it was by hand.
The other, is the dirty clay detail accident.

 

[Pockets]

Your probably going to need 2.5 and an orange pad for that 0.o

 

[danielle]

Oh yeah, that's what I'm afraid of lol.

No worries, you'll be hearing from me so I can place another order in a couple weeks once I get a chance to try the 2.0 out.

 

[Merlin]

Your probably going to need 2.5 and an orange pad for that 0.o

Agreed.

I might suggest SSR 2.5 if it's actually that bad.
Also an aggressive pad may be needed.
I'd probably start with a 5.5" Lake Country flat orange.

Least aggressive method FIRST!

Try the SSR 2.0 first. It's a great diminishing abrasive product with a nice long work time.

 

[Poorboy]

Try the SSR 2.0 first. It's a great diminishing abrasive product with a nice long work time.

start with a white pad and work it for a long time ....SSR2 and orange pads don't work that well together

 

[danielle]

I'm patiently waiting for the FedEx truck to get here.....it's not working so well. lol

I plan to try a test spot and maybe get the G6 started on the 15th.
Or maybe I'll get too excited to wait that long and stay over at work one day and try it

I was just wondering about the pad/product combination.
I think that's going to be the trickiest part for me to figure out.
*crossing my fingers and hoping I get lucky with the white pad/SSR2 combo*

And Merlin, I'm working on reading and understanding those files you sent me.
Wow, is that ever a lot of information.

I never imagined polishing/waxing was this scientific.

 

[Merlin]

And Merlin, I'm working on reading and understanding those files you sent me.
Wow, is that ever a lot of information.

I never imagined polishing/waxing was this scientific.

The Kevin Brown Method is kinda kewl, works real good and obtains excellent results.
Basically, it's prime the pad, regulated down pressure, machine OPM and arm speed.

Yepper, It's a science, a skill and an art form.